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Introduction to Cape Town
In this age of global travel, we travel to many destinations, enjoy the experience, regret that we have to leave, destinations which we talk to our friends and colleagues about on our return. A month or two later however, the trip becomes a fond memory and the mind turns to the next venture.
There are a few locations however, where something profound happens and that destination becomes part of you. Despite the passing of time, despite the return to ones own domestic routine, you cannot let that experience go and it lives with you forever. It is these trips that we all seek and ultimately treasure and it is these destinations, once found, that we return to, time after time, as if it is a long lost home.
The 1,000 km stretch from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth in South Africa, otherwise known as the Western Cape and the Garden Route, is one such destination. One could present many objective facts and points of interest about this region, but this would not do the area justice. A trip to such to a location such as South Africa is all about ones personal experience. Please therefore let me convey my own experiences of Cape Town and the Garden Route and in doing so, try and present the 'true' nature of this most stunning corner of southern Africa.
The approach into Cape Town by air is dominated by Table Bay, and Table Mountain, an altogether imposing introduction to the 'Mother City.'
Cape Town originally developed merely as a refreshment station for the many fleets that were continually ploughing their way between Europe and the East. By far the most influential European country to have economic interests in the east, during the 1600's was Holland, through the all powerful Dutch East India Company, and it was this organisation that created a massive vegetable garden throughout the Peninsula for replenishment of the calling fleets. A small part of this early heritage can be seen in the historic centre of the city, in an area known as the "Company Gardens". This early Dutch influence is evident all over the Cape, particularly in the unique style of Cape Dutch architecture so dominant, particularly in the winelands areas.
The British returned to the Cape in 1806, superceding the rapidly declining Dutch global influence, and themselves assuming the mantle of world-wide economic and colonial super power. British rule was to dominate until 1910, which, during their century of governance, indelibly left the unmistakable legacy of British occupation throughout the Cape, and particularly in Cape Town itself, which was the official seat of government. Through the Westminster style of government, to the many eras of architectural styles, and the influence of Cecil John Rhodes, the British influence permeates the very core of the Mother City.
The City certainly has an atmosphere of an old colonial trading outpost. There is also a quality and charm to the City that you cannot quite put your finger on, except to say that you almost sense that you have walked back in time, to a former golden age. It is a peculiar but quite delightful experience!! Without question the entertainment hub of the City is the vibrant Victoria and Albert Waterfront. The V&A Waterfront is home to a myriad of boutiques, stores, restaurants and bars. At night, the restaurants which line the actual waterfront area are alive with the sound of people talking about their experiences that day, aided no doubt by a glass or two of Cape Red!
The Cape Peninsula provides a wonderful spectacle and should be given a day to explore. Starting from Cape Town drive firstly to the famous Clifton beaches, followed by the wonderful Camps Bay. A stop at Camps Bay is certainly recommended, perhaps for the first refreshment of the day, but more particularly to take in the quite extraordinary panorama of the Twelve Apostles - you find yourself looking at them repeatedly, just to make sure that the beauty of the scenery is in fact for real! Having forced yourself away from Camps Bay, there is a beautiful stretch of coastal road leading eventually into Hout Bay, a delightful fishing port and tourist village, before heading back over Constantia Nek to Cape Town via the suburban wine growing areas of Constantia, and Newlands, home of the international Rugby and Cricket stadiums.
One of the "must do's", particularly for the first time visitor to Cape Town is a visit to Cape Point, which contrary to popular opinion is not the meeting point of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, but don't let the facts get in the way of a good story! Visiting Cape Point, and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve is a casual day out in itself, combining coastal, mountain, vineyard, and forest scenery, all in the space of a few square kilometres or so. The Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve is an area of some 23,000 acres, supporting various species of wildlife including the notorious Cape Baboons, Bontebok, Africa's biggest antelope the Eland, Zebra, and the prehistoric Ostrich. The Reserve is a botanists delight, supporting as it does over 5 times the amount of different species of flora that is present in the whole of the United Kingdom! The view points around Cape Point are absolutely magnificent, and the walk from Cape Point to the Cape of Good Hope is highly recommended, given the time. After experiencing the dramatic coastline around the Cape of Good Hope it is easy to appreciate why Sir Francis Drake referred to it as "the fairest Cape in the whole circumference of the earth".
On the return to Cape Town take time out to enjoy the sight of penguins en masse at the well known African penguin colony of Boulders, just outside Simonstown, the historical naval base of the Cape.
A half day at least should of course be given to Table Mountain. Weather permitting you could spend hours on the mountain walking around the top of it, viewing Cape Town, Cape Point, the Helderberg Mountains and the sweeping coastline of False Bay. The 360 degree panorama is quite extraordinary and if you travel up on a sunny day, you'll never forget the views. If you travel on a cloudy day however, you'll always curse the missed opportunity!
The Cape is known throughout the world as a wine producing area and there are many Estates to explore around the Towns of Stellenbosch, Franschoek, and Paarl, for example. Whilst there is more than enough to occupy the wine buff, whether seriously into the subject, or merely appreciative of good wholesome "plonk", it is not compulsory to be a wine drinker to appreciate the winelands regions. The natural environment of mountains, valleys, rivers, and forests all combine with the natural ambience of the many fine examples of Cape Dutch architecture to create an experience that can be enjoyed by even the most serious of abstainers. The winelands can provide an insight into the history and development of the Cape through it's many varied museums, and cultural attractions. For example the university town of Stellenbosch, second oldest town in South Africa, can provide a wealth of information into the development of the Cape whilst strolling through it's oak lined streets. In contrast Paarl, the "home" of the Afrikaans language, provides yet another dimension to the kaleidoscope that is the current South Africa, and a visit to the Taal (language) monument, situated on the slopes of Paarl Mountain is well worth a visit, as is the Huegenot museum in Franschoek.
There is also something rather pleasurable, having returned home, to shop in your local supermarket or Off Licence and finding a bottle of vintage Cape Red, produced in Stellenbosch, knowing that you were just there!
There is so much more to do in the Cape Town area. Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for 18 of his 27 years in prison, is certainly a must, as is a trip to the world famous Kirstenbosch Gardens, at the foot of Table Mountain. Apart from the beauty and variety of the Gardens, Kirstenbosch often hosts musical gala's in the evenings. With warm fine evenings, Table Mountain in the background and a bottle of Cape Sauvignon or Chardonnay, the setting is of course perfect!
In terms of accommodation, if there is a desire to experience the vibrancy of the city, stay at one of the hotels located in the Waterfront area. There are however, some wonderful hotels in Bantry Bay, Camps Bay and the Newlands area, not to mention a plethora of guest houses and B&B's. Whatever your requirements, they will be met in Cape Town and the surrounding towns and villages.
Once the Cape Town experience is complete travel east to George and the commencement of the Garden Route. It is possible to fly from Cape Town to George, but I would recommend the drive, or to be exact one of two drives.
The first option is to drive from Cape Town along the excellent N2 road that leads to Port Elizabeth (driving is on the left - always a bonus!). As you climb up over Sir Lowry's Pass into the Hottentots Hollands Mountains, look back at the magnificent panoramic views over False Bay, the wine lands to Cape Town and Table Mountain, a view that will not be forgotten.
Once over the ridge, Cape Town is a delightful memory, but ahead lies what I can only term as a drive through the Highlands of Scotland in an African setting!! Initially the route follows the prolific apple orchards along the Hottentots Holland Mountains, which then merge into the rolling plains of the Overberg crop farming areas alongside the Langeberg and Outeniqua Mountain ranges. Around each corner and over every ridge there is an urge to stop and take photographs. What is different to the Highlands is that occasionally the ridges transpose into the most amazing African plains.
The drive to George takes a leisurely four hours and by allocating a day to the drive, it is possible to take one or two detours. Hermanus, situated on Walker Bay is renowned as being the foremost land based whale watching venue in the world, and is definitely a beautiful place to visit at any time of year. If however, your visit coincides with the annual northerly migration of the Southern Right Whale, between July and November, then excellent whale viewing is assured, as this is the time of year that they seek the warmer waters around the southern Cape coast to mate and calve. There is indeed a 10 day festival held every spring during the September holidays. Whilst in Hermarnus take the opportunity to visit the Fernkloof Nature Reserve, walk on the cliffs overlooking the sea, or visit the Whalehaven Winery or other wine estates in the area.
Another detour worth considering is a trip to Cape Agulhas, the most southerly tip of Africa and the point where the Atlantic Ocean and Indian Oceans really meet!
The alternative route is to leave Cape Town via the main Johannesburg N1 freeway, over Du Toits Kloof Pass, and travel through the Breede River Valley fruit and wine farming areas. Continue through the Little Karoo (dry thirst land), via Barrydale and Ladismith to Outdshoorn, the ostrich capital of the world. What is fascinating about the drive is the spectacular combination of mountain scenery, rocky semi desert complete with small drought resistant plants, and frequent oases of fertility at various points on the many rivers that flow through the region. In fact the Little Karoo is a totally self contained, diverse ecological region, complete with it's own small wine, brandy, and port route!
Having reached Oudtshoorn, where there are opportunities for a quick Ostrich ride, before actually eating the product; it is then time to negotiate the pass through the stunning Outeniqua mountains before arriving in George. A drive which is in complete contrast to the coastal route, but equally fascinating.
The town of George is known as the administrative centre of the Garden Route and is the start of some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. The drive from George to Knysna is just 45 minutes, without stopping that is. It can take most of the day however, as the scenery is some of the most stunning you will ever see. In essence there is the constant back drop of the Outeniqua Mountains, the five lakes of the naturally beautiful, and ecologically sensitive Wilderness area, bordered by golden sands, warm seas and rivers meandering their way to the Indian Ocean - need I say more!! In particular Victoria Bay, Swartvlei Beach and Buffalo Bay are recommended. Beware the local Chacma Baboons charging back and forth across the main road, which is an interesting challenge when driving at 60 mph!!
Wilderness and Sedgefield, which lie between George and Knysna, are both beautiful resorts, but Knysna which is next along the coast is simply out of this world. Driving down the hill towards the town, the initial introduction to the heart of the Garden Route is a wonderful lagoon extending towards the coast in one direction, and along a river valley to the mountains in the other. Approaching the town around the outer edge of the lagoon into Knysna itself, the impressive Knysna Heads are immediately evident, where the waters of the lagoon flow into the Indian Ocean. There is a quality to this town that I have never experienced, such incredible beauty in terms of the scenery, a town that is clean, cultural and offers a genuinely warm welcome. Whether staying in the Town, on Knysna Quays, the recently developed Waterfront complex, or at one of the many alternative guest houses in the area, you with be enthralled by this town - it has everything. A stay in this wonderful town is thoroughly recommended, as it is also the perfect base from which to experience this southern stretch of Africa, and in easy reach of a multitude of must see attractions.
In particular take the morning cruise across the Knysna lagoon to the privately owned Featherbed Nature Reserve, where a tractor trailer ride to the top of the Western Head will provide magnificent views over coastline and the lagoon itself. Taking an optional walk back through forests, caves and a lagoon side path, you will then be served lunch under the milkwood trees, before returning to the mainland.
Just a mile or so east of Knysna, it is well worthwhile reserving an hour to visit the forest hideaway area of Noetzie. Forgiving the lack of a tarmac road, the dust track merely adds to the "African experience" in travelling the relatively short distance to reach this quite extraordinary beach. Access from the car park is down some quite steep steps, but the resultant effort is totally justified when confronted by the beautifully secluded lagoon and beach. It is impossible not to notice the unique Noetzie Castles overlooking the beach, some of which are operated as guest houses with a difference!
Having departed from Knysna, vowing to return, you continue east to Plettenberg Bay, otherwise referred to as 'Plett.', the millionaires playground. It's a pity the Dutch in their wisdom renamed Formosa (Beautiful) Bay after one of the early Dutch Governors, Joachim von Plettenberg, as the Portuguese definitely had it right! Extremely popular as a holiday resort, with its marvellous expanses of golden, sandy beaches, and situated on a natural estuary fed by the Keurbooms and Bitou rivers, it has rightly earned itself the reputation as the holiday centre of choice, of the young and trendy set! Visit the nearby Robberg (seal) Peninsula, and take either a relaxing stroll, or energetic hike, around this natural reserve. The views are stupendous from any angle, and one can even gain an insight into the living condition of the early Strandlopers (coastal dwellers) of the Cape by visiting the archaeological sight of Nelsons Cave, also situated in the reserve.
From Plettenburg Bay, take a detour down through the beautiful gorges of the Groot and Bloukrans Rivers, and spend some time meandering through the tranquil area of Natures Valley, before heading on through the Tsitsikamma forest to the contrastingly rugged coastline at Storms River, the official eastern end of the Garden Route. I would then suggest driving either to Port Elizabeth, for a one night stop over, or continue directly to the game reserves, which lie to the east of Port Elizabeth.
With the sightseeing complete there can be no better way to end the African experience than by spending a day or two at Shamwari. The first requirement is to ensure that the suspension on your vehicle is of decent quality, as access to the complex from the main road is a 20 minute drive along an interesting dirt track!! Within these 20 minutes the transition from the 21st Century to a bygone golden age is immediate, and noticeable. Accommodation is either at Long Lee Manor, or one of the other Game Lodges of, Lobengula, Bushmans River, Highfield or Riverdene. As you arrive you immediately feel "this is truly Africa," surrounded by acres and acres of plains, the shimmering sun, not a hint of the western world to be seen or heard, and out there somewhere a multitude of animals, birds and wildlife - wonderful!!
The Shamwari Game Reserve is the southernmost, big game, private reserve in Africa, with the added benefit of being malaria free. This 18 000 hectare Reserve stretches along the Bushman's River, halfway between Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown, and is steeped in Settler history, dating back to the time when all types of Game roamed freely throughout the Eastern Cape. All being well you will see the following animals whilst on your Game Drives - rhino, wildebeest, giraffes, lions, buffalo, hippo's, blesbok, impala and elephants. Shamwari is about conserving a vanishing way of life, and has been awarded a number of International awards for its efforts in conservation coupled with tourism. There may well be the temptation to extend a stay in Shamwari as it is an experience beyond belief.
Shamwari is indeed a fitting end to what is without question one of the most beautiful parts of the world that one could visit. If you enjoy spectacular scenery, are inspired by culture and appreciate a warm climate, not to forget the Cape wines then this region of South Africa is for you. As mentioned at the beginning of this text, there are certain regions in the world which grasp you and do not let go, Cape Town and the Garden Route is certainly one of them.
We are thus pleased to present a number of itineraries that encompass the spectacular and natural wonders of Cape Town and the Garden Route. There are self drive itineraries which feature Cape Town, the Garden Route and the combination of the two. If you wish to amend these itineraries in any way, however, please feel free to do so, they may all be adapted to meet any requirements that you may and be re-priced accordingly. You may also take these itineraries on an escorted basis with experienced Tour Guides who are members of the Southern Africa Tourism Services Association (SATSA), who will escort you from arrival to departure, sharing with you the magic of the region. There are also a number of set date tours, that we host in conjunction with our local guides in South Africa, should you wish to join a small group visiting this wonderful Country.
Furthermore, if you wish to travel to other areas of the country, the Kruger National Park, the Natal coast or Sun City for example, just let us know and we can extend your itinerary accordingly.
Whether you are on a self-drive or escorted itinerary, we will be on hand to address any queries that you may have. We have Representatives in the area, who may be contacted at any time.
We firmly believe that South Africa and the Western Cape in particular, is set to become one of the great holiday destinations in the years to come. The natural beauty of the Country is unrivalled, the culture is from a bygone romantic age and there is no language barrier. As Sterling is so strong against the Rand you also receive fantastic value for money - try if you can to spend more than £20.00 per person on a evening meal and a bottle or two of Cape Red or White - it's not easy!! Once you've been, you'll almost certainly want to return, that's the true reflection of this most wonderful Country.
One hears of course of the perceived dangers relating to personal safety. As so often around the world however, the reality is a different experience altogether. The high profile areas of Cape Town, and the towns from Cape Town to Shamwari offer no more threat than any other tourist destination in the world. Taking normal precautions, and calling on no more than average common sense, much as one would elsewhere when travelling in unknown territory for the first time, is all that is required.
If you are tempted, then let the temptation get the better of you, you won't regret it!
Call Us: 01637 879 992
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